From:Shane Neitzey e-mail:shanessigns-A-mindpsring.com
Subject:RE: RE: RE: Work on WL Date:Wed Mar 10 12:33:01 2021
Response to:2005

I like Evaporust. My oil tank was crudded up. And I put
in a bunch of steel nuts in with it to shake around
inside the tank.

Shane





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David,

I was able to remove my WLA heads during a road run with
the tools I had
with me. Not sure why your top motor mount is so tight.

You can remove the tank rust by filling the tank with
white vinegar and
letting it set over night. You need to fill it all the
way to the top. You’ll
probably get some rust at the neck, but it’s easy to
clean up.

A much better rust remover is Evaporust. I love this
stuff. It’s
biodegradable, reusable and harmless to paint. You can
get 1 gallon
bottles at the big box hardware stores. I order it on-
line in 5 gallon pails.
It’s by far the best rust remover I’ve found.

I’d clean the tank with acetone after you have removed
the rust. Acetone is
super flammable, so be careful with any ignition sources.

Your rank will flash rust if you leave it untreated or
empty too long.

You can seal the tank with Red Cote tank sealer. It’s
much better than the
cream sealer used in previous years. I have a Model A
Ford that had
dozens of rust hole leaks. The Red Cote sealer fixed all
of them.

I’ve filled gas tank holes with solder, as well. It
works but you need bare
clean metal. Evaporust and Red Cote is the best method
for repairing a
painted tank.

Bob


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Following up on my WL work, I was working on it yesterday
and found:

- Working on removing the heads for cleanup.
- I drained, removed and checked the gas tank. There is a
bit of rust on the inside and at least one spot where it
may have bubbled through the paint. Anyone know a good
place to get the tank cleaned/repaired?
- I drained the oil and removed the oil tank. Definitely
gas in the crankcase. Maybe because of the dead cylinder.
- I attempted to remove the top motor mount. No success
yet as it is really tight and not much space to maneuver
(don't want to damage the fins). Any/all suggestions
appreciated.
- Found a lot of dodgy wiring and incorrect hardware
used.

More to follow.

David


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I've been diving down a bit deeper into the bike. I've
ordered new copper-core spark plug cables and new spark
plugs (18mm). I was removing the 18mm to 14mm adapter on
the front head and it snapped off. I'll be removing the
heads this weekend and take them down to a machine shop
to get tapped and cleaned up. I have noticed many missing
small items, especially grease fittings. I've replace all
the missing fitting on the front fork and lubed it. I
found two (of four) snapped off bolts that hold the back
of the air cleaner on the carb. I will have to drill and
tap those out as well. I will be removing the gas and oil
tanks this weekend also to get better access to the heads
as well as do a good flushing. So, before I get this out
on the road I will:
- Rewire the electrical (I've found a lot of dodgy
wiring.
- Flush the gas and oil tanks.
- New oil in engine an gearbox.
- Install a heel/toe clutch pedal.
- Rebuild the carb.
Lot's to do.

David